You can’t help liking Chef Teage Ezard. When I asked him to (*blush*) sign my menu at the end of dinner, he simply wrote “Thanks Rebecca x”
He was very easy to talk with and replied honestly to anything I asked. (Like: Q. Where did he uncover the gorgeous black lava salt on the table? A. Wolfgang Puck. Q. What about the deep sea water used for sous vide – does it really make a difference? A. It did, but he’s not using it anymore – was it price or was it too hard to source?) I had the good fortune to sit next to Chef Ezard while we stepped through the new Black by Ezard – The Star – Sydney – menu. (Secret: Teage Ezard ate just half of everything on each plate.) Some of the dishes hadn’t actually hit the dining room then. That was a week ago or so. So you should be able to order them now. Not only did I get to sit next to Teage Ezard in the private dining room but I also drew the long straw. He showed me around the Black kitchen during service. Sweet – eh! Hello!
I’m a bit of a fan! (as I think I said already? And, feasting from starter to dessert on The Star grill menu gave me one page from the book. Cooking with fire is the new Black (pardon the pun.) Indeed. (Saw the fire under the grill in the kitchen. And I got to meet his Sous Chef James Renew.) Yet I’m also hankering for his namesake two hat Melbourne establishment and to one day get to Ginger Boy. (Black by Ezard by the way was recently awarded its first hat.) All show a different side of this talented Chef.
TUNA ceviche, blood orange, capers, ponzu, togarashi, sesame, pickled salad and mayonnaise
PRAWNS chilled Spencer Gulf, roasted chilli dressing, avocado, salad of young coconut, pomelo, Thai basil and crispy shallots
MULLOWAY pan fried, sesame salt, brown butter, capers, gremolata oil, soft herbs and lemon
LAMB RACK mustard, herb and black olive crust, Jerusalem artichokes, roasted garlic jus, watercress
OXTAIL soy caramelised, celeriac cream, Sichuan peppered enoki, chive and crispy taro salad, mushroom soil
CHOCOLATE Warm couverture ganache, dulce de leche ice cream, peanut butter mousse
On a side note about design I really like the way the hero of the dish is stated up front (in CAPS) on the menu.
As I also really like the clean aesthetics of the bar and the restaurant. And the extraordinary wine list. To date, I haven’t really explored the wines of the USA. Remiss of me I know. Rectified in some small way by Sommelier James Audas (Electrolux Appetite for Excellence – 2012 Young Waiter of the Year) in matching the wines for the dinner.
2008 Tunkalilla Vineyard Riesling, Willamette Valley, Oregan USA (with the TUNA)
2011 Domain Sigalas Assyrtico, Santorini Greece (with the PRAWNS)
2009 Landmark Overlook Chardonnay, Sonoma County, California USA (with the MULLOWAY)
2008 Van Duzzer Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon USA (with the LAMB RACK)
2008 Linnaea Rhizatomi, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California USA (with the OXTAIL)
All Saints Grand Muscat, Rutherglen, Victoria Australia (with the CHOCOLATE)
After Chef Ezard and the other guests had left, James gave lucky me a peek in the show cellar. There’s a mighty impressive wine list at Black and a young sommelier with an impressive palate and nose.
Black by Ezard
Level G, Harbourside, The Star,
80 Pyrmont St, Pyrmont, Sydney Australia
+61 2 9657 9109