Howard Park Wines 25th anniversary dinner

Jeff Burch, Owner of Howard Park Wines entertained us with a story, of how he was invited to Dr Kevin Cullen’s house for dinner way back in the start of the Margaret River wine history.

Jeff thought that he should take something respectable so turned up with a 20 year old Penfolds Grange Hermitage, only to be met at the door by Kevin, who took the bottle, looked at it and then stated, “Son, Cabernet is for Kings, Shiraz is for peasants. Don’t make that mistake again!”

So Jeff is not surprised that the early founders of Margaret River planted Cabernet not Shiraz!

The occasion for this story was the Howard Park 25th anniversary dinner, and Howard Park Wines owner, Jeff Burch was our host. The venue, Buzo Restaurant, Woollahra (Sydney).

As my original base is food (what with cooking professionally and all) I just love the (for me) topsy turvey upside down ways of a wine dinner. The team at Buzo Restaurant Woollahra did a great job of matching the food to the very special wines with which we were to celebrate. Even the menu listed the wines first, and so it should on such an occasion. With the very reason for our gathering celebrating 25 years for Howard Park it was only right that the wine was the hero!

ON ARRIVAL

2010 Howard Park Great Southern Riesling

Very pale straw with green tinges in colour. Lifted aromatics of musky talcum powder, ripe pear and citrus blossoms greet the taster’s nose. The palate is both zesty and lengthy with lingering citrus fruit and minimally musk corralled by tight acidity. These attributes bode well for a lengthy and lip smacking life of this wine.

Selection of canapés

FIRST COURSE

2011 Howard Park ‘Miamup’ Sauvignon Blanc Semillon

Elder flowers, black currants and gooseberries with yellow and pink citrus zest, sweet herbs and just a dash of vanilla pod spice present in aroma. On the palate the wine displays a bundle of flavours, layers and textures. Fresh lemon/lime citrus and luscious custard apple, yellow flesh peach and quince. The citrus oil and lemon butter thickness of the palate is finished with a fruit tingling acidity.

2009 Howard Park ‘Flint Rock’ Chardonnay

Delightful scents of white field flowers, pear drop essence and citrus oils enriched with minerals, nutmeg spice and caramel impress the nose. From the fermentation and malo-lactic in oak, the palate’s pliable core of citrus, peach, honeydew and dried pear are moulded around a fine nut-meal texture and crème brulee richness. A distinct and soft mineral acidity finishes the wine.

Coppa, salame, goats chees and parmigiano gnocco fritto

SECOND COURSE

2009 Howard Park ‘Flint’ Rock’ Pinot Noir

Sautéed wild sweet cherry and raspberry fruit aromas with freshly baked fruit muffin and underlying earth, star anise and truffle notes beckons on the nose.
Once tasted though, we experience subtle sweet and sappy ripe red fruits, with mushroom and spice. The fine fruit tannins of the mid palate provide a silky texture while a distinct and soft mineral acidity finishes the wine.

2008 Howard Park ‘Miamup’ Cabernet Sauvignon

The aroma is youthful and classic cabernet aromas of chocolate mint, violets, briary hedgerow fruits with a touch of mocha and toasted oak spice. On the palate we find a bag of bramble and briary fruits – red currants, mulberries, plums, blackberries and blueberries, all supple and rich. This ambling fruit richness is bridled by plentiful and fine fruit tannins, well assisted by the finest grained French oak.

Smoked duck salad with slow cooked egg and shaved truffle

THIRD COURSE

2008 Howard Park ‘Leston’ Shiraz

The wine is an opaque purple red of great density. The nose is rich and concentrated; the 2008 Leston Shiraz is a revelation. The Satsuma and blueberry varietal characters are complemented with the regional soy and seaweed and the site’s violet characters produce a true wine of place.
The 2008 Leston Shiraz is the finest release of this label so far, in my opinion. Layered primary fruit and site characters have unmatched intensity with layers of fleshy sweet red and blueberry fruit, spice, floral and coffee notes. The opulent texture of the midpalate is balanced by perfectly ripened tannins that extend through the finish adding complexity, balance and finesse. A great style for ageing.

2008 Howard Park ‘Scotsdale’ Shiraz

The 2008 Scotsdale Shiraz is a dense bright purple wine with brilliant clarity. The nose has lifted sweet plum, raspberry, licorice and clove aromas of remarkable intensity. With further breathing there are complex anise, mocha and subtle pepper notes emerging. The 2008 has great concentration without sacrificing finesse. Sweet red licorice and spice characters are wrapped in a plush, silken texture of great persistence. The tannins are incredibly fine and well balanced giving the palate a great seamless quality. This is a long wine with raspberry licorice and cardamon notes persisting for an eternity. A great (or greatest?) Scotsdale Shiraz in a distinguished lineage, the 2008 is at its finest.

Whole roasted lamb with garlic and rosemary roasted potates, lemon and mint green beans and green salad

DESSERT

2008 Howard Park ‘Abercrombie’ Cabernet

The 2008 Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon is opaque red with a purple rim. The nose is filled with blackberry, cedar, tomato leaf, dusty bitumen road and chocolate representing each distinctive component of the harmonious Great Southern and Margaret River blend. On the palate, the Great Southern fruit parcels provide the structural backbone and line of the wine while the Margaret River component lifts the aromatics adding flesh and complexity. The palate starts with a rush of plush red berry fruit and reaches its zenith with damp earth and forest floor complexity balanced by ultrafine powdery and layered tannins. The finish displays the class of the selected vineyards with long fruit and structural elements balanced by supporting mocha oak.

2004 Howard Park ‘Abercrombie’ Cabernet (in magnum)

Selection of cheese

Delice de Bourgogne (soft, cows’ milk, France)
Holy Goat Bridgets Well (ashed goats, SA Australia)
Stilton (cows’ milk blue vein, England)
Comte (cows’ milk mature, hard cheese, France)
Cabot Cheddar (cows’ milk, mature hard, USA)

When asked my favourite wine of the evening, I replied on the night, that it had to be the flagship 2010 Howard Park Great Southern Riesling. Whilst drinking very well now, it is said to be a great cellaring prospect, is predicted to peak in 5-7 years and drink well into its maturity for another 15-20 years under screwcap.

Everyone had a jovial time in good company, with delicious wine and food, a lovely venue and a fabulous host.

Jeff Burch, family and staff, congratulations on 25 years.