Les Amis restaurant Singapore is a gastronomic gift. In contrast to the move towards the use of local food in many parts of the world, Singapore as a heavily populated island requires its produce to largely be imported. When you’re talking the top end, at a restaurant like Les Amis, the result is that the best produce from around the world is offered on their plates - accompanied by one of the most extensive and fine global wine lists in Singapore.
Polished service pairs with polished silver. Cutlery is added to the table setting during the meal as the degustation courses arrive. It’s intriguing to see what looks like a steak knife – but is in fact “a sharp knife” served with fish. (The steak knife arrived later with the beef). The local custom of providing a handbag chair is appreciated. Sommeliers and waiters are knowledgeable and courteous, informative polite and warm. One can’t help but notice that even though I’m the last to leave the restaurant, the neighbouring table has been cleared but is not distractingly reset while there remains even one patron in the restaurant.
But what about the food you ask?
The esteemed ‘Les Grande Tables du Monde, Traditions et Qualite’ association welcomed Les Amis – as the first restaurant in Singapore and only the third in South East Asia – to the exclusive fraternity this year. A very great honour indeed. Recognition is rightly due with the marvellous international architecture of this menu from the very solid foundations of classical French cuisine.
Chef de Cuisine, Armin Leitgeb delivers a contemporary and stylish menu including five signature dishes. “Having worked his way through the ranks in the European kitchens of the then 3 Michelin-star Jardin Des Sens in Montpellier, 3 Michelin-star Auberge de L’ill in Alsace, 2 Michelin-star Restaurant Tantris in Munich and in America’s The French Laundry”, it is little wonder the Chef Leitgeb dishes up flavour and texture sensations that build pleasure upon pleasure.
The first mouthful of the evening is a nod to that background, when he boards up his twist on a traditional Alsacian tart. The Iberico ham tart has me begging for more.
Perhaps my praise for this restaurant also comes for the liberal use by Leitgeb of some of my produce preferences. My degustation was laced with Iberico ham, fresh black winter truffles, generous herbs, abalone, foie gras and eggs.
The theatrical presentation of the hero (in the Chinese style) – abalone on herbs, Wagyu on hay – before it returned to the kitchen to be plated – only added to the sense of occasion and once again built anticipation.
Les Amis offers the Signatures of Chef Armin Leitgeb, a Table d’hote and the degustation but is accommodating in replacement of dishes from each area of the menu. I was truly appreciative of this, but did find it difficult to limit myself on my visit to Singapore to my final selection. It was an outstanding evening.
Iberico ham tarte flambée
Marinated maguro Mediterranean vegetables and lemon vinaigrette
Ciabatta wrapped crispy egg Iberico ham, spinach and truffle-ham ragout
Herb roasted abalone, homemade Yukon gold potato gnocchi, lettuce and Australian black winter truffles
Crispy skin Amadai, chanterelle mushrooms, lardo crudo and green pea purée
Hungarian goose foie gras, balsamic glazed cherries, almon “dragées” and almond milk
Char – grilled Australian Wagyu rib eye cooked in hay maitake, lettuce and truffled French fries
Laurent Perrier Rosé
Mara des Bois strawberries, malt and parsley
Perhaps it was too much? But when the cheese selection is from Maitre Affineur Bernard Antony (Alsace – France) this extra course was prerequisite.
“Some 30 years ago, Monsieur Bernard Antony started selling cheeses from a cart which he pushes around; today he has become one of the most sought after cheese affineur and supplier for a number of 3-star Michelin Chefs. he only supplies cheese directly to certain restaurants around the world and at his shop in Alsace.”
An added attraction to this cheese is that unfortunately at this time in Australia, raw milk cheese is largely prohibited. I had to indulge. Did I know when I would next have a fortunate opportunity like this?
My palate was placed in the hands of the restaurant. After discussing my preferences we agreed: Mimolette, Pont-l’Eveque, Epiosses (my favourite creamy and deep), Tomme D’Abondance, Galet De Chatreuse, Peral de Brebis and of course Roquefort – from the beautiful selection offered on the trolley.
In the tropics of Singapore, without the temperate seasons of spring, summer, autumn (fall) and winter, it was intriguing to my mind at least, that the international savoury courses of Chef Armin Leitgeb offered a very winter influence – truffles, mushrooms, foie gras and ham. Yet with the dessert menu came warmth – spring and summer – and the last of the stunningly sweet and small Mara des Bois strawberries.
The chance to speak with Pastry Chef Daniel Texter uncovered that his depth of experience (while still in his twenties) includes cutting his teeth at the legendary Noma restaurant in Copenhagen and a stint at our own Vue de Monde in Melbourne Australia.
His leaning to freshen dessert with herbs left me with a lightness of palate at the end of the meal – via parsley sorbet with my strawberries. Perhaps on a return visit to Singapore, I will take up his offer of a dessert degustation, (having had to skip choices like Pickled Hawaiian papaya, frozen curry, yohurt, ginger and lime – or Greek yoghurt, blueberries and sweet green pea juice) so I can better appreciate his talent.
Les Amis
1 Scotts Road, Singapore
+65 6733 2225
Could not grab feed.
