Always at the forefront of Sydney dining – Bilson’s new move takes the restaurant from the sublime to the supreme. There is a new young and extraordinarily talented team as Chef Patron Tony Bilson welcomes back the new Chef de Cuisine Diego Muñoz after his stint at the stoves at the famous El Bulli. This collaboration takes Bilson’s even further on the cutting edge of Australian cuisine. Here’s a peek inside the first March menu which I was lucky enough to enjoy on its very first night.
The intelligence starts with the first mouthful when the newspaper wrapping of the Bilson fishchips amuse bouche headlines our own gorgeous bow-tied Tony Bilson with the acclaimed Paul Bocuse. These little morsels were of heavenly lightness and crispness and with subtley yet depth of fishy flavour. What an exquisite way to begin the new journey.
Our selected menu was the Fine Bouche with a couple of little changes between us. Truly transcendent. Combinations that surprised. What is this delicate flower? The dish awakens the appetite with the delicate oyster combination. Icy apple was the first of the unexpected events of the evening. White on white with the blue magic of borage to signpost this first course.
Even with the most beautiful food photography, it is hard to prescribe aroma and taste or to even transmit the vibrancy of a dish. The prawn just seared on one side warms through the flesh of more than the prawn. Here it is also sans the clear and concise consomme which further enlivened it.
The gold crusted egg yolk was one of the most sensational dishes I’ve ever enjoyed - I may be biased – it’s well known that I lean towards an egg. This yolk, was just warmed – less than coddled, perhaps a little cured - the flavour was full and rich and intense, the texture was unctious and silky and creamy. The gold was just the slightest thin layer – literally a shell. Not from a goose or we’d think this was a fairytale. This stunning dish is sure to become the Muñoz signature.
All that came before and all that followed was also divine. My other favourites perhaps were the prawn and the foie gras from Muñoz, then the desserts at the hands of Chef Patissier Jean-Charles Sommer. Gold leaf inside the raspberry jelly found me squealing with pleasure. The Tonka bubbles were deeply satisfying creating even more moans. Dinner was creative, artistic and intelligent, but more than just the visual it was about the palate, flavour and texture. The melody was enchanting. Bilson’s last note and newest claim to fame is the supplementary chocolate box that punters can’t go past.
Photos by Jose Alkon
Fine Bouche
Amuse Bouche
Calamiri, Ink, Radishes, Cucumber
Semi Cooked and Raw Crystal Bay Prawn, Consomme, Baby Sorrel
Autumn Vegetables, Comte, Coffee
Blue Eye Cod, Jerusalem Artichokes, Olive Oil, Olives, Turnips
Gold Crusted Egg Yolk, Chicken, Rye, Parmesan, Cauliflower
Rack of Lamb, Chocolate, Eggplant, Leek, Ashes
Goat Curd, Olive Oil, Pound Cake, Muscatel
Roseberry
Chocolate, Lime, Hazelnuts, Tonka Bubbles
Coffee, Tea, Petit Fours
Head Sommelier Richard Hargreave guided us through the matched wine selection and ensured that all of service sung in harmony. Dinner had that spark and that magic that I think is required of a great restaurant. For me the magic is why I go out to dinner, for dishes that are extraordinary, for dishes I can’t cook at home, for cuisine as artistic interpretation. This new formula works and works well. I’ll be back for some more magic as soon as I can.
Bilson’s Restaurant
The Foyer, The Radisson Hotel
27 O’Connell Street, Sydney NSW 2000 Australia
+61 2 8214 0496
Could not grab feed.
April 06 2011 at 3:59 am
Outstanding!!! Very creative and for sure exquisit.
I am very far away from Australia and the Bilson’s, I live in Peru, but I’ve had the chance to taste Diego’s extraordinary cuisine.
At home we’ve seen him prepare his wonderful creations in our kitchen and whats more spend wonderful evenings eating and drinking a good glass of wine.
I’m so proud of him.
Beatriz
April 06 2011 at 4:54 pm
Realmente extraordinario!!!!!!!!!!!
Y un orgullo también para todos los peruanos el hecho de tener a Diego representandonos con tremendo nivel en lo que respecta a las tecnicas de cocina.
LFP
November 02 2011 at 2:49 am
claro pues logico…..tecnica y cocina espanola no peruana….
April 07 2011 at 4:55 pm
Querido hijito, me siento un papa orgulloso, que maravilloso todo lo que tu haces. Felizmente que no me hiciste caso.
Te quiere
Tu papa
April 07 2011 at 6:52 pm
Esos platos se ven como toda una aventura, tanto para el sentido gustativo, como para el visual.
Sigan para adelante, felicidades y muchos exitos
April 07 2011 at 10:24 pm
Diego…muchos exitos y felicitaciones
April 07 2011 at 11:36 pm
Great review of what was obviously a most spectacular meal. We are booked to sample the ‘ L’omnivore Grande’ menu in a couple of weeks. After reading this review I am looking forward to it even more.
April 08 2011 at 9:33 am
You’ll be sure to enjoy it! The food is fabulous and many of the dishes I had are also on the newer larger tasting menu. The great thing is that the service at Bilson’s is right up there too!!
April 08 2011 at 4:19 pm
Amazing! With these shots, I can almost taste every thing from where I am right now (at my office desk). It would surely be a pleasurable experience to indulge soon.
April 11 2011 at 12:34 am
Those dishes are phenomenally beautiful! Although I wasn’t there to taste it personally, the words and those truly lickable photos transport me there. Definitely keen on trying it myself!