7 Chefs 7 Wonders of the World

At the beginning of the evening, we were seduced by a spectacular vintage Moet. The whole of the evening fulfilled it’s promise. The definition of gala was upheld. Seven chefs, seven courses, seven Wonders of the Culinary World: Michel Roux (senior), Nicolas Le Bec, Reine Sammut, Tony Bilson, Philippe Mouchel, Cheong Liew and Tetsuya Wakuda.

‘In the past fifty years Australia has grown from an Anglo-oriented food culture into a country with some of the best restaurants and wines in the world.

My inspiration for Cuisine NOW was to bring together a collection of chefs whose careers represent a narrative of the changes in contemporary cuisine over the last 30 years. Cuisine NOW is a celebration of these artist chefs who have helped shaped contemporary gastronomy in Australia….’

- Tony Bilson

Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage, 2000, from magnum

MICHEL ROUX, THE WATERSIDE INN, BRAY, U.K.
HUITRES PACIFIQUE SUR UN MIROIR DE GELEE DE CONCOMBRE AU GINGEMBRE
(Pacific Oysters on a Mirror of Cucumber and Ginger Jelly)
Domaine Chandon, Sauvignon Blanc, 2009

PHILIPPE MOUCHEL, BRASSERIE MOUCHEL, MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA
PARMESAN CUSTARD, SLOW POACHED EGG, CHICKEN CONSOMME
Domaine Chandon, Barrel Selection Chardonnay, 2006

REINE SAMMUT, AUBERGE LA FENIERE, LOURMARIN, FRANCE
KINGFISH A LA PEAU CROUSTILLANTE, MIREPOIX DE LEGUMES, COMPOTE DE FENOUIL ET VINAIGRETTE A L’HUILE D’OLIVE DE PROVENCE
(Kingfish with Crispy Skin, Mirepoix of Vegetables, Fennel Compote and Provencale Olive Oil Vinaigrette)
Chateau D’Esclans, ‘Whispering Angel’, Provence, France, 2008, from magnum

NICOLAS LE BE, RESTAURANT NICOLAS LE BEC, LYON, FRANCE
LANGOUSTINE AU ZESTE DE CITRON JAUNE, CREME D’ECHALOTE AU BEAUJOLAIS
(Scampi with Lemon Zests and Beaujolais Echalote Cream)
Chiroubles, Grand Cru, Georges Duboeuf, 2008

CHEONG LIEW, ADELAIDE, AUSTRALIA
BOSTON BAY ABALONE, DUCK BREAST, ABALONE SAUCE, GARLIC ROYALE, OYSTER BROCCOLINI
Domaine Chandon, Pinot Noir 2008

TONY BILSON, BILSON’S RESTAURANT, SYDNEY AUSTRALIA
CARPACCIO OF VENISON
Domaine Chandon, Barrel Selection Shiraz, 2005

TETSUYA WAKUDA, TETSUYA’S RESTAURANT, SYDNEY AUSTRALIA
SWEET PEACH WITH PEACH SORBET
SALTED SABLE WITH LEATHERWOOD HONEY CREAM

Domaine Chandon, Cuvee Riche, N.V.

This teased and taunted. I’m one whose usual preference is for my oysters natural, naked, nude. This extraordinarily light mirror was just that, as described, and reflected a pool of delicate flavour that quite remarkably enhanced the oyster. Pure genius! to which I humbly courtsey and bow down. Like the champagne, this was the perfect introduction to the dinner, and paved the way for the delights that were to come.

For a second time, there were gasps of delight from my right. I was less vocal in my lip smacking applause, but nonetheless enthusiastic. The pleasure was internalised, and from the tip of my tongue, to the depths of my belly, this was an ultimate pleasure. I went behind the scenes after dinner and told Philippe Michel this, or rather, how much I had very much enjoyed his egg dish. Soft unctuous egg, savoury custard and consomme. My three favourite foods: combined in one dish. How could this have not been heaven, and if hard pressed, I would say it nudged ahead of a field of brilliance as my favourite dish.

Her food is described as sunshine on a plate. It’s true and you can see the joy on her face, and the joy in the dish. In the days surrounding this dinner, I’ve enjoyed more of Chef Reine Sammut’s company. Her exuberance plates to simple, layered care and detail, freshness and vibrancy, lightness and smiles.

Again I surrendered, to the divine grace that is the food of Nicolas Le Bec. These are only words. Rich, deep, satisfying, sauce, slurped, scooped by the shell, does not describe my satisfaction. This is not my first taste of Le Bec. Every dish has impressed. Again, he creates what is close to perfection. Offsetting each component, contrasts in taste and texture. Citrus cuts the luxury but does not dominate. The langoustine retained centre stage.

And I was captivated. Cheong Liew is the master of combining many flavours. Spiced undertones of complexity supported moist succulent flesh. Again we were presented with two of my favourites: duck and abalone – for a marriage made in heaven. Each individual component was a shining star. Yet, still, together the components were more than the radiance of the individuals.

Like our bow-tied host, the godfather of Australian Cuisine himself, this dish was refined and elegant. Continuing on the bell curve, the final accent of full flavour, the perfection of produce spoke for itself.

The rightful place of the peach was returned in this dish of ultimate simplicity and freshness. It sang. This picture is my neighbour’s plate, as he broke into the juicy sweetness. Summer captured in a spoon! The flavours to carry home with you on a balmy Sydney evening.