The noun ‘provenance’ defines the origin or source, from the French ‘to come from’, and so, when Michael Ryan of Provenance Restaurant and Luxury Suites Beechworth Victoria, was guest chef recently in Sydney, he well represented his state, and bringing Victoria to Sydney for the launch of Melbourne Food and Wine Festival 2010.
But before we get onto the fabulous food of Michael Ryan, let me tell you about the first taste of the day. One of the honoured guests at the lunch was food hero Stephanie Alexander who had also travelled from Victoria. The team at Omerta had created a delicate and entrancing whisper Lemon Verbena Breeze in her honour, and to whet our appetites.
The Sydney Media launch for the festival, was a well orchestrated as well as delicious lunch with a range of passionate portrayals by guest speakers about the taste of things to come in Melbourne March 2010. I’m not sure it was planned, but I have an inkling it might have been, that the very exuberant Jill Dupleix matched her green (coloured) personal fashion statement to the green string bags that were given out at the end of the lunch. Another take-home that was very fitting to the launch and the theme of the festival was an heirloom tomato plant from The Digger’s Club: Wapsipinicon Peach Tomato.
Every dish showcased the produce. Omerta resounded with pleasurable groans. The room announced their favourite to be a spectacular clear Parmesan Consomme. Michael Ryan humbly provided details that he’d used ice filtration for clarification. For me it would be hard to highlight one item or one dish to stand above the others. All touched my tastebuds, tummy and heart with joyful delight. I was enchanted to see an old favourite of mine, Pickled Watermelon Rind provide a support act. Using all of the animal has been a rediscovered pleasure, but it’s not just a contemporary idea and this harks back to when we also used (and preserved) all of our fruit and vegetable bounty too. Great to see (and taste) this preserving treasure (as the second use of a rind) on the menu.
Many of you know that I like my smoked salmon (when it’s the good stuff). With all of the inferior product that is available, I was really elated to enjoy Tom Cooper’s fantastic artisinal product on this menu.
Great meal Michael, thank you! Applause for your thoughtful and intelligent menu and craftmanship, and for the team at Omerta for the support in executing this marvellous lunch.
Confit Baby Artichokes, Shaw River Buffalo Mozzarella, Tomato Butter, Pangrattato
2009 TAHBILK MARSANNE
Oxley Zucchini Salad, Tom Cooper’s Smoked Salmon, Parmesan Consomme, Milawa Goat’s Curd, Capers, Borage Flowers
2009 TAHBILK VIOGNIER
Brined Great Valley Quail, Watermelon, Candied Olives, Pickled Watermelon Rind, Watermelon Sauce, Gapsted Walnuts, Tangerine Agrumato
2008 OMERTA FROM A FARR PINOT NOIR
Berkshire Pork Jowls, Baked in Hay, Grains, Broadbeans, Peas, Mint, Crackling, Raw Chioggie and Burpee’s Golden Beetroot, Mt Buffalo Hazelnut Praline, Vinegar
(Beetroot grown and harvested by the Digger’s Club, Mornington Peninsula)
2006 SCOTCHMANS HILL CORNELIUS SYRAH
Many thanks to fellow guest at the launch, Melissa Leong @fooderati for taking these photos so I could sit back and enjoy my lunch.
Filed under: eating out, festivals , Australia, beetroot, Berkshire pork, food festival, Michael Ryan, Omerta, Provenance, restaurant, Tom Cooper's Smoked Salmon, Victoria
Lovely response to the lunch, thank you! How good was that food, and the integrity with which it was designed, cooked and presented. Complete co-ey re green dress ( current fave, wear it everywhere) and theme of edible garden. Probably should have worn brown to be truly on message…