Becasse Regional Degustation: Languedoc-Roussillon

At the latest European Regional Degustation at Becasse Sydney, I was entranced with the re-examination, reinvention and representation, of the cuisine from Languedoc-Roussillon region of France by Chef Justin North and his brigade.

Solidly based on classical flavour foundations, Chef Justin North’s menu delighted with thoughtful modernisation that enhanced taste and aesthetic and holistic enjoyment.

The culinary journey commenced with Canape of Sardine mille-feuille (pictured above) which were a light and feathery door to the evening. The sardine was the light though the lead and the puff pastry food support bright and bubbly with the sparkling 2005 Caves de sieurs d’Arques, Blanquette du Limoux, Roussillon. I always enjoy bubbles to start an evening. The chosen sparkling wine (a blend of Chenin, Sauvignon, Chardonnay) was crisp and clean.

The Bread, Green olive and lemon thyme olive oil bread (baked on the premises) joined our table next, accompanied by the signature Becasse olive oil square.

Amuse Bouche of Oysters with lime ‘caviar’ was an entertaining start which delighted with the promise of things to come. A small bite, a classic beginning, a slight variation: lime caviar produced as pops in the mouth, fresh flavoured and just slightly tangy, imitating size and style of trout roe.

Pretty as a picture, as the saying goes. My mouth was delighted too. The variations in temperature made me think. The produce of the sea was at the temperature of the room. The sorbet was brought to less than frozen, yet still created a diversion from the other temperatures.

Assiette Montpellier: Escalope of marinated rouget and scallop with rouget jelly, carrot emulsion, carrot and orange sorbet, sesame filo, petite herbs and Spring flowers was a delight to the eye as well as the mouth.

The components worked splendidly as individual pieces. I didn’t want to risk combining what was in each individual flavour, singular perfection. I finally succumbed. I had nothing to complain about and each planet of perfection worked well in the whole, though I’d probably left it too late and enjoyed the majority of the plate before I started to work it together. Surprise of the dish was the carrot and orange sorbet which was a tantalising and just lightly flavoured as savoury. My favourite component: the rouget jelly was the embodiment of clarity.

2007 Mas des Bressades, Cuvee Excellence, Costieres de Nimes (70% Roussane, 20% Voigner, 10% Grenache Blanc) accompanied.

The Bourride provided all the classical strength of flavour and marriage of seafood of the traditional Provencal stew. What changed in this dish was the update of Delicate fish stew of mussels, clams, prawns and ocean jacket, light bisque emulsion, aioli foam, gremolata puree and petite cress. Truthfully, though the menu described it as such, I’d be challenged to call it a stew. There was a deceptive richness and depth of flavour. The textures were like fairy water sprites of the sea: playful, light and sometimes just a little naughty. Like a child in a fairtyale, I didn’t want this dish to end.

The binding to this book was 2006 Domaine de l’Arjolle, Equinoxe, Vin de Pays des Cotes de Thongue. The Muscat of this blend created an exemplary match to the Bourride as well as the Voigner and Sauvignon grapes.

Amazing! (were I younger I would say awesome! totally awesome!) I love cassoulet, but you know how it goes, it loads you down. This Terrine Cassoulet was a true delight! The Mosaic of confit duck, chorizo, smoked hock and pancetta was served chilled and encased in braised cabbage leaf as its wrapper. All of the components of a classical cassoulet were uplifted in this lightened and modernised treatment. And it was served with four truly delightful textures of beetroot (reading on the menu as with beetroot jelly and compote).

What could have been a better wine match than 2006 Domaine Singla, Passe Temps, Cotes du Roussillon (100% Shiraz).

Seasonal perfection in variation of preparation, the lamb confit belly was the unctuous centre of the plate. I was sated but wanted more of the tender braised lamb neck which was rounded and rich. The smoke was the background to the fillet which was still rare, perfectly ‘done’. I’ve never been able to do it in public, but I did come close to licking my plate! Lamb Perignon: Aromatic braised lamb neck, confit belly and smoked fillet was served with grilled asparagus, fondant potato, burnt butter and rosemary jus. Cherried 2007 Domaine Clavel, Les Carrigues Coteaux de Languedoc (Grenache, Shirze Mourvedre) also delighted!

I am a sticky girl! I should have expected this marriage. I was, however, unaware of the delightful choice. Serendipity.

2007 Mas Amiel, Maury (Grenache) washed down the Sphere of chocolate and cherry with soft black forest sponge, ganache puree, cherry and raspberry sorbet, in a most enjoyable fashion. It was a sinful dessert. I really didn’t need more than a mouthful. It was rich. The sphere was thickly rich. Yet, I ate every morsel.

And, dinner finished with a pot of black tea and one of each of these …

My thanks to my host Chef Justin North and the team at Becasse for a truly splendid meal, and to my dinner companion and fellow Taurean Not Quite Nigella for delightful conversation.

Becasse
204 Clarence Street
Sydney NSW 2000
Australia
+61 2 9283 3440

www.becasse.com.au

and you can follow Chef Justin North on Twitter at www.twitter.com/PlanBecassEtch